Worm Bin Checklist to Hand Out to New Worm Bin Owners
Edited 2/22/13
Feeding:
Feed the worms scraps from the kitchen including fruit and vegetables,
old bread, cereal and anything of plant origin.
This includes paper. Tearing it
up or chopping it up speeds the process but is not necessary. Start with one pint buried in the front of
the bin and then a second pint buried in back a few days later. Check the front after a week and only add once
most of the food is consumed (looks like dirt instead of garbage.) How soon you
can feed again will depend on the temperature, the nature of the feed, the
moisture, and number of worms. One pound
of worms should consume about ½ pound per week of garbage. If you feed too much then the worms can’t
keep up and the garbage may heat up and or decompose anaerobically (without
oxygen -- which smells bad.) Potato
peels, orange peels, carrots, avocado skins, corn cobs take a long time to
decompose but they will eventually disappear.
Softer foods disappear quickly.
Make your judgment when to feed next based on the softer foods.
Moisture
control:
Not too dry, not too wet.
70% moisture is the target but the worms are tolerant of both wetter and
drier conditions. When there is too much
moisture they may try to escape the bin.
You also run the risk of the bin going anaerobic (without oxygen) and
getting smelly. A wet bin at the bottom
is to be avoided. Add dry newspaper to
help take up excess moisture. If the
vermiculture is too dry, spray water on top of the vermiculture to add water.
Use “Squeeze Test” to measure. Worms breathe
through their skin which must be moist in order for them to breathe.
Squeeze
Test to judge moisture:
Take a handful of the vermiculture or the wet newspaper and
squeeze it as hard as you can. If you
can just see a little moisture coming out from between your fingers the
moisture is perfect. If you can wring
water out of the vermiculture then it is too wet. If no liquid moisture can be seen then it is
too dry.
Temperature:
Not too hot, not too cold.
Ideal temperature is 68F for feeding and reproduction. Worms will die if they freeze. They will die if they get too hot – 90 to 95F
is the upper limit. If you keep them in
an environment between 50 and 75F they will do OK. In the summer they can be kept outside in the
shade but need to be checked for overheating on very hot days. Too much food all at once may decompose
thermophilically and heat up the bin locally to 80F or 90F or more. If this happens, the worms will move away to
a cooler spot in the bin until things cool off and then they move back to eat
the decomposed garbage.
Insect
Control:
Use TAT Fly paper stuck to a folded sheet of newspaper in the
top of bin to measure and trap the insects.
If an infestation occurs, cover the side vents with masking tape and put
row cover over the top of bin held in place with nylon strap with elastic
gusset to trap adults inside. Fruit
flies can’t pass through the screened vents but Fungus Gnats can. The adult insects will eventually be trapped
on the fly paper and the infestation will be controlled.
Edit: As of 5/04/12 I am no longer putting vents in the
bins. The top is covered with row cover
to provide ventilation and improve insect control. Row cover excludes and/or traps fungus gnats. The screened vents do not. The solid lid is used for convenience when
transporting the bin but is removed and replaced with the row cover for use.
If the infestation is fruit flies, then adding the fruit fly
trap too would be advantageous since it will actively attract the adult flies
while the fly paper is just a passive trap.
Fungus gnats and shore flies are not attracted to the vinegar in the
fruit fly trap.
Edit: As of 2/22/13: I am experimenting with an alternative
method to hold the row cover on the bin.
I cut 8 two inch diameter holes in the lid of the tote bin for
ventilation and then hold the row cover in place with the lid. This reduces the ventilation and does not
provide as tight a seal as the strap, however, it is more convenient to use
than the nylon strap. Time and
experience will tell if this method is adequate for ventilation and insect control
or needs further modification. I am now
providing the worm bin kits with this modification and am looking for feedback
from users. I am still providing the nylon
strap too.
Harvest:
Harvest worm castings from the bin to use on house plants or in
the garden. They contain nutrients as
well as natural plant growth hormones and disease fighting chemicals. The use of worm casting up to 40% in plant
soil has shown improved growth and harvest as well as more plant vigor and
disease and pest resistance. Make worm
tea from castings as a convenient way to feed house plants. Worm tea is just as good as the castings.
Edit: 2/22/13: I use a 4 mesh sieve for the initial screening
of the vermiculture followed by a 10 mesh sieve. The castings have to be dried some in order to
go through the finer sieve. If they are too
wet they will ball up. The 10 mesh sieve removes nearly all the worms from the castings.
Worm Tea:
This is made from worm castings. Harvest the worm castings from the bin. In a five gallon bucket put one pound of worm
castings into 4 gallons of water. Put a
fish tank bubblier into the bucket to add air and stir the mixture
occasionally. (I use a paint stirrer on
an electric drill but that isn't necessary.)
After 12 hours add 1 TBS of molasses and stir and bubble for another 12
hours. When done strain the mixture through a sieve into a watering can and
apply the tea to house plants or to plants in the garden. It can also be sprayed on the foliage. It can be used as is or diluted 50:50 with water. It will not burn plants. This is a living culture and needs to be made
fresh each time.
If you have insect pests in your bin ( i.e. fungus gnats)
then using worm tea on house plants is preferable since the insects won’t be
transferred to the house plants as they would be if you used the castings. (The
castings contain the insect larva. The
tea does not provided you use a fine sieve.)
Q&A
How much
food can I expect one bin to handle?
One mature ten gallon tote has about 2 pounds of worms when
it reaches maturity in about 4 to 5 months.
The worms will process about 1 ½ pounds per bin per week. Starter bins that have one pound of worms to
start consume about ½ pound per week.
These results vary with temperature, moisture, and the feed stock.
How long
can I leave them without feeding?
Leaving them for a couple weeks is of no concern. If you leave them for months without fresh
food the worm population will gradually decrease and the worms will get
smaller. They will stop
reproducing. The worms will process
everything in the bin over and over until there is nothing left but castings. In a bin that I left for several months this
way there were still a few small worms.
Where is a
good place to keep worms?
I keep mine in the cellar where it is about 65F year
round. A cellar that is at least 55F
will work but the worms will not eat as quickly or reproduce as quickly if they
were warmer. Keeping them in your living
space requires that you do a good job controlling insects. Fruit flies, fungus gnats and shore flies are
all nuisance insects that would like very much to have access to your worm bin
for feeding, breeding and egg laying.
If you
already compost what advantage is there to having a worm bin?
For one thing the convenience of having the worm bin in the
house in the winter justifies it. The
worm bin can be used in the winter as a source of castings to make worm tea for
house plants or seedlings. My wife and I
grow greens in the basement under a grow light in the winter for salads. The worm castings and worm tea are used to
feed these plants. The worm castings
produced by the worms during the winter are ready to be used to plant in the spring. Also worm castings are superior to compost
for seed germination, plant growth, vigor, disease and pest resistance and
harvest. Use up to 40% with potting soil
or garden soil for best results. Even as
little as 5% produces measurable results.
