My Worm Bin
Original Post 4/13/11
Last edited 7/29/12
Last edited 2/22/15
Last edited 2/22/15
Ten
gallon plastic tote from Wal-Mart, Sterilite Brand, cost about $5.
A
wooden base in the bottom covered with window screening material provides air
space under the bedding and a space to collect excess moisture.
I eliminated
the drain – more on that later.
Several
dry folded newspapers to act as a sponge to soak up excess moisture.
Shredded
news paper strips that have been dampened make up the next
layer. This is the layer that the worms live in and in which you bury
your food scraps. It is also where the worm castings accumulate as
the worms do their thing.
Dry
shredded news paper strips on top of bedding to absorb excess moisture.
A layer
of folded dry newspaper on top.
Screened vents in the top of the sides.
Edit: 7/29/12: I have eliminated the screened vents and
instead use a piece of garden row cover to cover the top of the bin and hold it
in place with a one inch wide nylon strap with an elastic piece sewn in.
The tension in the strap holds the row cover on tight. The row cover
provides plenty of ventilation and does a better job of keeping flying insects
out of the bin (or ones in the bin from flying out). Particularly, this
has solved a problem I had with fungus gnats infesting the bin. The
fungus gnats could access the bin through the screened vents.
I purchase the row cover from Gardener’s Supply Co. Item
32-646, All Purpose Fabric, 6ft X 20ft – enough for 24 worm bin covers.
Screened vents in the lid.
Edit: 7/29/12: The lid has been replaced with row cover.
I also lay a couple sheets of folded newspaper on top of the row cover to
retard drying if the bin seems to be drying out.
A baited Fly trap to capture fruit flies.
Edit: 7/29/12: If fruit flies are a problem then continue to
use the baited fly trap. I have had more trouble with fungus gnats and
another small fly identified as a Minute Black Scavenger Fly
which looks a lot like a fungus gnat. They are not attracted to the
vinegar bait in the fly trap.
New 7/29/12: A strip of TAT Fly Paper to trap flying insects
inside the bin.
To trap flying insects inside the bin I use a strip of TAT
Fly Paper unrolled from its container and stuck to a sheet of dry newspaper
that is put in the top of the bin under the row cover.
Stick the bins if you stack them to allow ventilation.
Edits 2/22/15:
I have eliminated the screened material on the top of the wooden base. The newspaper on the top of the wooden base provides it own support. I use 2 pounds of folded newspaper on top of the wooden base to absorb the excess moisture from the vermicompost. I change the newspaper every 3 to 4 months when I harvest the worm bin. I tear up the old wet base paper and use it as bedding when needed.
I keep the bin filled to within 3 to 4 inches of the top with moistened newspaper torn into strips (the bedding.) The worms and microbes digest the bedding during the 3 to 4 months between harvests. Adding bedding material helps keep the vermicompost from compacting and turning anaerobic.
I use a plastic storage bag or plastic shopping bag over the top of the vermicompost to help keep the top from drying out. In the winter the air is very dry and the top of the bin will dry out unless evaporation is retarded. The plastic works well. In the summer when the humidity is higher the plastic cover has to be removed or reduced in area to prevent the vermicompost from getting too wet.
Stick the bins if you stack them to allow ventilation.
Edits 2/22/15:
I have eliminated the screened material on the top of the wooden base. The newspaper on the top of the wooden base provides it own support. I use 2 pounds of folded newspaper on top of the wooden base to absorb the excess moisture from the vermicompost. I change the newspaper every 3 to 4 months when I harvest the worm bin. I tear up the old wet base paper and use it as bedding when needed.
I keep the bin filled to within 3 to 4 inches of the top with moistened newspaper torn into strips (the bedding.) The worms and microbes digest the bedding during the 3 to 4 months between harvests. Adding bedding material helps keep the vermicompost from compacting and turning anaerobic.
I use a plastic storage bag or plastic shopping bag over the top of the vermicompost to help keep the top from drying out. In the winter the air is very dry and the top of the bin will dry out unless evaporation is retarded. The plastic works well. In the summer when the humidity is higher the plastic cover has to be removed or reduced in area to prevent the vermicompost from getting too wet.
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